Portland: Livestock and Voodoo.

Fear not.

Though the title of this entry may be conjuring up images not meant for the faint, Voodoo is sweet and fried and Livestock is rural and on a stick.

Monday of this week, we ventured into the great beyond to soak up the crazy at the Big State Fair. As it is always a dream of my dear Ruby, during the harvest season, to visit each and every State fair in the Union so, we humored her with a 50 minute drive south west to Salem, OR - the state capital.

Not unlike the Minnesota State Fair, this crowded event was a chock full of crowds, overpriced and frightening food and showcases of award winning farm animals. The grounds are beautifully manicured, the people more tattooed and less obese, no deep fried cheese curds or pickles on sticks, but many blue ribboned apple pies and quilts, tractors and hot tub displays. A taste of the mayhem of the Midwest here on the west coast.

Highlights included a car quilt (photo on right), Oregon berry lemonade and a Smoky the Bear camping and forestry display featuring a tank of live salmon and a fully furnished camping yurt.

Now for the Voodoo.
One word: donuts.
We read about Voodoo Doughnut months ago, and thus continued our irrational obsession with fried dough. We have gone to great lengths to sample the wares of donut aficionados across the country. When told about great donut experiences, we will make our way to them. We remain loyal to our NY staple, Donut Plant. Not too sweet, fresh, delicious. But we wanted to visit this sweet fried mecca- a place refrenced in almost any guide to weird and wacked out Portland sites.

As the name implies, the theme is wicked, raunchy, gory, sicky and bizarre. Donuts in the form of skulls and genitals (yes.). toppings such as bacon, tang and unidentifyable blue kool-aide.

In addition to attracting millions of unattending screaming children, they also perform weddings (for $25) and blare hard rock from their jukebox. The walls are pink and the decor is emodied by the black velvet portrait of Kenny Rogers that hangs behind the cashier.

At and average of $1 a donut, it was a bargain breakfast. We ordered 5 donuts and 3 $1.25 Stumptown coffees knowing that we may be tossing away the remains if they proved to be unpalateable. Lemon chiffon cruller, Oregon creme (like a custard, really), Arnold Palmer (cake doughnut covered with lemon and tea powder), maple glazed and something chocolaty.

ps: A bargain breakfast made of sugar, oil, sugar, flour and chocolate is not the breakfast of champions.

Portland: Saturday Farmer's Market

It is really not to believe that this abundance of farm fresh food happens here every week, March to December in the Rose City.
The Portland Famers Market circulates locations throughout the week culminating in the largest and most exciting one, the Saturday Market at PSU In addition to farm stand with the fare we are all used to seeing at markets across the country, this farmers market (like the rest of this city) has pop-up food stands serving everything from tamales to buttery baked goods to fresh crab legs in cocktail sauce.
In spite of the very persistent rain we hung out with all morning, we were able to eat our way through the stalls, buy up some amazing produce and plan our menu for that night's cooking project. Zucchini blossoms, tomatoes of all sorts and colors, amazing mushrooms, spring onions and herbs, greens and all kinds of goodies!

The most delicious breakfast biscuit I ever experienced was from a stand called Pinestate Biscuits. A tender, flaky buttermilk biscuit is cut in half, served with a piping hot smothering of creamy and savory vegetarian shitake mushroom gravy. I requested mine with an addition of egg and cheese (for protein, of course). We fought over who got the last bite.


The market has an endless roster of amazing things to eat and drink. A coffee stand rub by CAFE VELO professes: Each cup of coffee is individually ground and brewed to order in porcelain filter holders from a constantly changing selection of seasonal Stumptown single origin coffees. We also feature a French press for those who prefer fuller body press coffee. Pretty cool.

Also, the market features pepper growers who roast their own hot peppers over a giant turning metal cage rigged up to a propane tank (to wet to photograph!) and a super cool pizza booth making fresh pizza and breads in their brick oven.

We were too stuffed to taste it all - and of course wanted to save some for next week...

Cheers!

Portland: Beer, Coffee, Gardens and More Gardens.

We are still thinking that we are in a dreamlike trance here on the West Coast. Everything we eat, everywhere we look, beauty and deliciousness abound. Coffee and beer are in arm's reach in every neighborhood. Food carts, food trucks with the strangest but most mouthwatering bites peek out behind almost every corner. A paradise indeed.
After our tummies were expanded to their maximum (we should have worn sweatpants), we walked around The Pearl neighborhood, peeked into some lovely shops, and found ourselves at the Rogue Brewpub and sidewalk sale. Yes. Cases and cases of Rogue beer - on sale! Tempting...

From beer, to coffee and mini cookies at Barista (delicious ices shots of Brazilian single source)
Just enough coffee to get us up and moving - not moving fast enough on account of the enormous size of our breakfast.

POWELL'S should be a blog entry all to itself. To rival The Strand, I think it's the biggest and most impressive book store I've ever been sucked into. We were so overwhelmed by not only the sheer volume of books to browse, but the friendly displays and staff pics. They even had the children's picture books organized by Caldecott Medal winners! $95, and a very heavy bag later, we were ready for some more sightseeing...

Portland: Breakfast.

By now, you must all know how mch we love breakfast. In all forms and styles, breakfast is the meal of champions.
Nothing starts your day like splitting a platter of eggs, potatoes, biscuits (if you are lucky), maybe something green and a sticky sweet serving of French toast, or pancakes with REAL maple syrup.

Byways Cafe. Our first breakfast experience was beyond delicious. Everything about this little diner was fabulous. From the fresh, hot stumptown coffee and the platters of delicious and colorful vegies to the thrift-shop travel decor. Well worth the 20 minute wait (on a Friday morning!)




I ordered the Vegie Hash- a mountain of potatoes topped with sauteed mushrooms, onions and fresh spinach. Jack cheese melted atop, the plate was completed with a single egg, over medium. Served with sour cream and salsa. mmmm. R got her pancake fave - blue corn, pecan butter and piping hot maple syrup. Perfection.

Spring comes to VT. Memorial Day Weekend (part 1)

Having my very first guest over the Memorial Day weekend was a delight! I was able to play tour guide in a place I am just beginning to familiarize myself with. The multi-shaded green landscape was a perfect backdrop to the weekend, painting a most perfect pastoral setting to an adventure over the hills of the North East Kingdom.

The adventures were many and the sites visited varied. I think that I'll cut the blog in half and recount some of the highlights.

After an early morning shift at the cheesehouse, I was off to Burlington airport to pick up Jenine and Ruby. (Jet Blue rocks.) Our first stop after the pickup was City Hall Park in downtown Burlington. That Saturday was the first of the season when the artists and crafters would be coming to the weekly farmer's market to showcase and sell their art. Also, there would be a ton of food and I, big food fan, was ready for some springtime produce. There were some awesome food vendors selling all kinds of delights, from preserves to cheeses to (I think most of you will agree that root beer floats are not produce but we can make an exception)
The square in front of city hall was totally happening. Quite the hippie scene complete with dogs off leash, wild dreaded dudes and lots of grass lounging.

From the market, we wandered around Main and Church Streets in search of brunch. We had all had a long and early start to the day and were ready to chow down on some home cookin'. Big ass lines at brunch are not just a NY thing, as it turns out. We skipped the 35min wait at a recommended joint in town and took a chance at a super cute diner called Henry's. Good call. Henry's was awesome. The food, pipin hot and delicious, the decor gave me plenty of fabulous photo opportunities and the waitresses with their awesome uniforms were fantastic.

Off the Farm: Montpelier, VT

According to the official website, Montpelier is the nations smallest capital city. Fancy that.
It was a rainy Saturday and a great day to spend indoors. I prepared myself for the big city field trip by packing up my trusty MacBook, charger, camera and coffee mug. Since I am car-less here, my bike still hiding from the cold country air, I am totally dependant on anyone who offers to drive me out for an adventure away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Greensboro. Though devastatingly hard to peel away from the beautiful trees and picturesque mountainous landscape, getting a breath of other humans and coffee is vital to my well being. When I was offered a lift to the big city capital, I leapt with excitement. Really. About an hour drive south west, we rolled up and down hills and drove by silos, old barns, odd junked out trailers and came into Montpelier.
First stop, Langdon St. Cafe. Occupying the bottom floor of a three story adorable house, the cafe was started as a cooperative and later was bought and run by two owners. Live music nightly, a fabulous and extensive food and beverage menu makes this place a cultural center and a very busy place - especially on a weekend afternoon. Hot egg and cheese on a bagel and a cafe au lait and I was set for the next few hours.

After warming up with a hot mug and catching up on my emails, I decided to take a stroll along Main St. (is there a town in this country that doesn't have a Main St.?) to check out the scene. The scene was adorable. Bookstores with awesome window displays, an old apothicary/museum of 19th century pharmacy items, more books, and a beautiful golden domed State Capital building that usually gives tours in the summer (which I found out doesn't actually begin till July).

Next on the mini tour was the famed Hunger Mountain Coop. I was super excited at the prospect of purchasing fresh produce as it had been close to a week of packaged, canned and refrigerated food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I was ready to come to the inn with an armful of farm fresh greens and other much needed boosts of vitamin rich food. I took the long walk down the old railroad tracks that lead to the hidden coop and along the way spotted this really cool bike-meld sculpture. The coop was beautiful! everything looking so enticing and delicious. I filled up my little cart with produce, perusing the aisles and snatching up some goodies to take back to the horn of unplenty, Greensboro. The cheese counter alone was a plethera of bounty. Cheeses organized by region and state, small farms and well known favorites. Hunger Mountain was celebrating Earth Day with a great big member appreciation day complete with prizes and a cookout! There were samples galore and really intersting local artisanal product. I bought some local 10 grain bread, some Montpelier made chocoalte bars to send off to Brooklyn and the May edition of Saveur. Having gotten myself so accustomed to my beloved and dearly missed Park Slope Food Coop in Brooklyn, I forgot how ridiculously expensive organic food can run you. Here's waiting for VT spring to show it's little tiny head and grace us with some fresh local produce! $103 dollars and 3 grocery bags later, I was still really happy to have my kale and eat it too.

To Market, To Market...

Mid-March, just that much closer to April! Sunday was a beautiful mild sunny day. A perfect afternoon to pile into the car, camera in tow, and head to Jean-Talon Market.

JTM is one of four large public indoor/outdoor year-round farmer's markets in Montreal. Though much of the produce is sourced from all over North America, I noticed that a majority of vendors sell local produce and products made and grown in Quebec. We sampled a fine selection of fresh produce, from plums and nectarines (not local), to hot-house tomatoes and maple syrup (local and delicious!).

At the height of the maple syrup harvest season, many syrup sellers set up little tables covered in a layer of snowy shaved ice. In the style of the sugar shack, they heat up syrup, pour it onto the shaved ice, then roll a popsicle stick over the now hardened syrup to make a maple lollipop.
Tis the end of the season for my favorite root vegetables: beets, turnips and rutabagas and the anticipated start of the asparagus harvest. There was lots to look at and loads of people crowding the narrow isles of the indoor promenade.

We checked out some local Quebec cheeses at the unfriendly and paltry sampled 'Qui Lait Cru!' and walked into an amazing spice and olive oil emporium aptly called 'Olive et Epice'. The spice selection was impressive. In addition to carrying $3 Madagascar vanilla pods and 7 other varieties of vanilla, this crowded little storefront sells their own house made blends of curries, rubs and aromatic smoked salts. Sadly, they don't have a website!

Duck, quail and chicken eggs, farm fresh were being sold by Steve Finklestein, a 3rd generation farmer. A minor celebrity who recently was written up in the local paper.

The afternoon came to a close with some coffee and pastries at Premier Moisson, a high quality, local bakery chain. (the website features a soundtrack- don't be scared when it starts up!) We sampled a maple pecan roll with a melty buttery center, a plain croissant (I always like to use that as a base for comparaison) and a walnut raisin brioche with butter. mmm. Good times!

Canadiana: Sunny Montreal Weekned

The exile continues through March as I brave the seems-like-forever-winter solo in Montreal. My days consist of listening to CBC radio, watching lone flakes of snow fluttering through big bay windows, cooking up food projects and snapping pictures of different landscapes. With cheese making on my mind I fantasize about change. Upcoming adventures and the spring season to come...

Yesterday was an exceptionally beautiful day. After spending the night in Mile End (home of Mordechai Richler, Leonard Cohen and Schwartz's Deli) and lamenting the loss of an hour of sleep, my 2 locally based sisters and their gentlemen, planned a brunch adventure and neighborhood jaunt. Here are some of the highlights:

The day begins with my favorite meal. Breakfast. Drinking cup after cup of mediocre coffee we reread the menu, taking forever to figure out what to order. In typical Rotstein fashion, the sisters are debating who will share what with whom and who gets the sweet vs. savory meal. Omelet? Blintzes? French toast or pancakes?
[There is nothing better than the smell of frying onions.]



After a starchy Following the starchy beige breakfast (delicious but lacking in any fresh vegetables or fruits), we head out to explore, bright sun pouring into the street. A plethora of vintage clothing stores and funky boutiques line the hopping side streets along Mount Royal Avenue. I spotted (for when the $$ returns) some fabulous Montreal t-shirts decked out with awesome graphic depictions of the Orange Julep, Poutine, and various Mtl street scenes.

Bagels. I won't go into the long drawn out and uninteresting 'fight of the bagels'. (not to be confused with 'flight of the bagels'). I am a Montreal raised lady but personally prefer my bagels from the ovens of Absolute Bagels, Bergen Bagels or yes, La Bagel Delight. Sorry.

The Breakfasts of Winter: Part 1 - Victor's 1959

Breakfast. Hands down our favorite collective meal. A great breakfast sets the course for the rest of the day. Hot, filling, cup brimming over with coffee, protein, sugar, I can go on and on...

What is better than breakfast? Breakfast on a weekday! Imagine that, no wait for a seat, no lines around the corner, no waitress giving you the stink-eye because you have sat at your booth for longer than the time it should take for a grown person to inhale two eggs, toast and a side of vegie sausage. Breakfast on a weekday also means chatting with the staff who are chatting with the regulars, reading the paper, writing a postcard. Breakfast on the weekend is what we all dream about when the alarm goes off at 6:25am reminding us that no, we will not have time for leisure this morning.

Victor's 1959 is a local favorite. We read about it in countless Minne foodie blogs and articles. It is the real deal for a cheap and filling breakfast, Cuban style. The restaurant is housed in a mural-adorned, small shack-like house at the corner of Grand and 38th street. Niki, the Greek owner, has been serving Cuban style cuisine since 1999 (not sure what the 1959 is about as nowhere on their website does that date appear as a milestone of any important event). Walls are adorned with patrons' Sharpie markings and little shrines of knickknacks, photos and Cuban paraphernalia.

The food was fresh and tasty, coffee was refilled whenever it got below half full (though the beans are their own special fair trade brew, the joe was weak and lacking completely in flavor) and since we were three, we ordered many plates to share: One huge corn pancake (with soft kernels of yellow corn embedded within), a huge mango pancake (with walnuts and a decorative drizzle of mango sauce), Ranchero Cubano (2 corn tortillas with melted cheddar, topped with 2 eggs & covered in a creole sauce) and finally 2 eggs over medium, potatoes and Cuban toast (white roll smushed till flat on the grill, buttered and served with guava paste). Total bill was $25. Not bad.

Festivals on Ice, St. Paul Style

Another leisure Saturday, another trip over to the State Capital, St. Paul. We were invited by Ruby's aunt and uncle to experience the first day of the Winter Carnival. We learned as the day progressed, that the St. Paul Winter Carnival was started back in the day, in 1886 and has been a huge community festival ever since. According to my research about the beginnings of this tradition, business leaders of the burgeoning city wanted to, "...disprove a New York newspaper reporter who had described their beloved city as 'another Siberia, unfit for human habitation in the winter.'” Hysterical.

As we have described on numerous occasions on the blog, Minnesotans are anything but wimpy winterizers. Bikers, skiers, nude pedestrians, dog walkers; all in sub zero temperatures with wind-chill! Carnival was no exception. Today was an especially brutal winter morning. We were out of the house by 9:30am and by 10am we were sipping sweet, hot coffee and partaking in delicious baked goodness at Swede Hollow on E.7th St. We enjoyed some delicious coffee; I had a Cubano coffee which was 2 shots of espresso, brown sugar and steamed milk. Coffees were served with a bitter-sweet chocolate stir stick. Artichoke Strata (picture a savory crustless quiche flecked with red peppers, artichokes and shallots, topped with finely grated cheese). My fellow eaters had an assortment of pastries ranging from cherry almond scones to pecan buns to sweet cinnamon bread pudding. Breakfast of champions.

Ice sculptures were being carved as we walked through the amazing display. Day one of the Winter Festival was underway... (if you have a hard time making out the sculptures, the one on the right is called 'School of Fish' Complete with Mr. Wally Eye, teaching up front, and little dunce-cap fish sitting on a conch shell beside him. Below, a scenic tiki beach, hammock, palm trees and tropical temptations...)

From there we hopped back in the car and jetted of to Rice Park - not so much a park but a little green area opposite the Landmark Center, an amazing architectural structure built in 1802 complete with St. Paul lore and historical significance. We learned all about the history of the building, from its heyday at the turn of the century, to its transformation into USPS central station, to 1930's New Deal headquarters. A national landmark, today it serves as a cultural center for music, dance, theater, exhibitions, and can be rented for kick ass parties.
Fun times. Cold, but definitely worth waking up for delicious breakfast and supporting sub-zero ice carving aficionados.

We gave the Winter Carnival a whirl. What would you do with 6 months of winter??

The Other Twin (City, that is)

Growing up in Minneapolis I was pretty much clueless when it came to St. Paul. This is how it works in the Twin Cities, there's a divide, you are either from one side of the Mississippi river or the other. So, MLK Day we were given a golden opportunity to get an insider's tour of good old St. Paul- hometown to one of the last American Ford plants, Garrison Keillor, and F. Scott Fitzgerald.

St. Paul is the MN State Capitol and is much more stately and grand than punky artsy Minneapolis. Yeah, it's cool to have a whole other city to explore once we get sick of Mpls.!

Friends Benjamin and Jesse who went to Midwest Ivy Macalester College and are fellow foodies started the day off right by bringing us to the "best coffee in the twin cities"- Kopplin's. They have one of those high-tech "clover" machines that makes coffee to order one perfect cup at a time. It created this finely tuned coffee cowpie grounds, (you'd have to see it) which makes your coffee just so creamy and sweet. Miya even drank it black! [Consequently, Starbucks just bought Clover out, so now you have to give Starbucks your money to get a machine. Another reason to boycott!]

After the pilgrimage to the sacred Kopplin's site, we went over to the Como area to Abu Nader's Market - Home made fresh pita, delicious spicy fool (fava bean salad), crisp and flavorful falafel and lemony garlicy humus. Delicious!

Next up, Common Good Books, Garrison's cavernous and plentiful bookstore. A vast and assorted collection of everything you would ever desire to read about. A large local section of non-fiction and food writing. Made us want to spend the last of our dollars on some good reads!

From the bookstore, we went on a drive along Summit Ave. (glorious old blue-hair mansions). The James J. Hill House is a great museum for all to check out and get a sense of St. Paul history.

The weekend before we took a leisurely Sunday drive on Grand Street- a great strip with local coffee shops, bookstores, and shops. The Golden Fig is a wonderful shop specializing in locally made foods, cheeses, preserves, etc. The local food movement is strong here! St. Paul is actually really happening! I have to say that I have been converted. Happy, Benjamin??

Holding out for Springtime and our own Manhattan Skyline

The winter is no time for a vacation in Minneapolis.
We are realizing this fact the hard way. The sun in the sky is not an indicator of a lovely day for a walk. The sunniest days have been the coldest. Though we are trying to get out of the house and have at least one adventure a day, it seems like it's easier to stay put. Sunset at 5:20, dinner at 7. Depressing thoughts.
We left the house yesterday, computer and novels a-tow.
We parked the car on 24th street and as I got out I noticed the house with the flowerbox. Sweet. Still holding out for springtime??
I know I am.



Cross the street to Nicollet. Arrive at Spyhouse. Surly baristas, average coffee, stale food, dirty tables, packed 24/7, strange collection of students, chess playing weird old men, loafers and grimy furniture. Ahhhh... feels like home!! We miss you, NY! Feels like the Tea Lounge on Union St. Brooklyn minus the babies and stroller brigade. The sweet part of the evening was taking pictures of the cafe and realizing how many of the kitchy 50's era art was of the Manhattan skyline! Check it out: