Myco-what? (and more from l'Ile de Montreal)

Friends,
This week, as our story unfolds, the explorations of the Island of Montreal grow ever more exciting. In my research, I have learned that Montreal is the largest island in the Hochelaga Archipelago, and in fact in the entire Saint Lawrence River. Who would have thought there were other islands on the St. Lawrence? Thanks to Wiki I've learned that there are 74 islands in the Hochelaga Archipelago. I learn something new each day. So much for grade 8 geography retention.



In the frigged streets of Montreal. Left to my own devises, I discovered some magic. Camera in hand, roving the streets of Mile End and The Main (Blv. St. Laurent), curtains opened to reveal a store straight out of the Land of Make-Believe... The Mycoboutique on Rachel below St. Laurent, veritable mushroom emporium. All mushrooms all the time. Live, frozen, dried, embroidered, sculpted, carved... So awesome, I put myself on the mailing list. They specialize in fresh local wild mushrooms from the forests of Quebec and Ontario and since we are not in season for local mushrooms, they are selling fresh fungi from Oregon and British Columbia.

Canadiana: Sunny Montreal Weekned

The exile continues through March as I brave the seems-like-forever-winter solo in Montreal. My days consist of listening to CBC radio, watching lone flakes of snow fluttering through big bay windows, cooking up food projects and snapping pictures of different landscapes. With cheese making on my mind I fantasize about change. Upcoming adventures and the spring season to come...

Yesterday was an exceptionally beautiful day. After spending the night in Mile End (home of Mordechai Richler, Leonard Cohen and Schwartz's Deli) and lamenting the loss of an hour of sleep, my 2 locally based sisters and their gentlemen, planned a brunch adventure and neighborhood jaunt. Here are some of the highlights:

The day begins with my favorite meal. Breakfast. Drinking cup after cup of mediocre coffee we reread the menu, taking forever to figure out what to order. In typical Rotstein fashion, the sisters are debating who will share what with whom and who gets the sweet vs. savory meal. Omelet? Blintzes? French toast or pancakes?
[There is nothing better than the smell of frying onions.]



After a starchy Following the starchy beige breakfast (delicious but lacking in any fresh vegetables or fruits), we head out to explore, bright sun pouring into the street. A plethora of vintage clothing stores and funky boutiques line the hopping side streets along Mount Royal Avenue. I spotted (for when the $$ returns) some fabulous Montreal t-shirts decked out with awesome graphic depictions of the Orange Julep, Poutine, and various Mtl street scenes.

Bagels. I won't go into the long drawn out and uninteresting 'fight of the bagels'. (not to be confused with 'flight of the bagels'). I am a Montreal raised lady but personally prefer my bagels from the ovens of Absolute Bagels, Bergen Bagels or yes, La Bagel Delight. Sorry.

The Breakfasts of Winter: Part 2 - Sticky Bun Pancakes

Yesterday morning I awoke to no direct sunlight and it felt like the middle of the night even though the clock by the bedside read 11:05am.

There was nothing keeping either one of us from continuing to slumber through Monday except for the promise of breakfast. Victor's 1959 definitely planted the pancake seed in our gastronomic memories. Thinking about brewing up some strong coffee and flippin a batch of pancakes was incentive enough to get out of bed and welcome a dreary February morning.

The concept of these pancakes began when we took a trip to United Noodles, the self described "Largest Oriental Grocery Store in the Midwest!" It was. Huge warehouse of strange food and non-food products from around the 'Orient'. We snagged some interesting products for use in later culinary inspired times.

The time was now.

One of our prize finds was a can of red bean paste direct from Taiwan. Another was ready-made taro pancake mix from the oriental country of Hawaii (the taro root is used in Polynesian cuisine and is commonly used to make Poi) - It was a match made in breakfast heaven. Taro pancakes and red bean paste. Sticky Bun Pancakes, Ruby's idea. Add in some sweet, condensed milk and some flaky shredded coconut, serve with some tangy mineola orange or sections of tangerines, pineapple or other seasonal fruit.

A reason to get out of bed!

The Breakfasts of Winter: Part 1 - Victor's 1959

Breakfast. Hands down our favorite collective meal. A great breakfast sets the course for the rest of the day. Hot, filling, cup brimming over with coffee, protein, sugar, I can go on and on...

What is better than breakfast? Breakfast on a weekday! Imagine that, no wait for a seat, no lines around the corner, no waitress giving you the stink-eye because you have sat at your booth for longer than the time it should take for a grown person to inhale two eggs, toast and a side of vegie sausage. Breakfast on a weekday also means chatting with the staff who are chatting with the regulars, reading the paper, writing a postcard. Breakfast on the weekend is what we all dream about when the alarm goes off at 6:25am reminding us that no, we will not have time for leisure this morning.

Victor's 1959 is a local favorite. We read about it in countless Minne foodie blogs and articles. It is the real deal for a cheap and filling breakfast, Cuban style. The restaurant is housed in a mural-adorned, small shack-like house at the corner of Grand and 38th street. Niki, the Greek owner, has been serving Cuban style cuisine since 1999 (not sure what the 1959 is about as nowhere on their website does that date appear as a milestone of any important event). Walls are adorned with patrons' Sharpie markings and little shrines of knickknacks, photos and Cuban paraphernalia.

The food was fresh and tasty, coffee was refilled whenever it got below half full (though the beans are their own special fair trade brew, the joe was weak and lacking completely in flavor) and since we were three, we ordered many plates to share: One huge corn pancake (with soft kernels of yellow corn embedded within), a huge mango pancake (with walnuts and a decorative drizzle of mango sauce), Ranchero Cubano (2 corn tortillas with melted cheddar, topped with 2 eggs & covered in a creole sauce) and finally 2 eggs over medium, potatoes and Cuban toast (white roll smushed till flat on the grill, buttered and served with guava paste). Total bill was $25. Not bad.

Festivals on Ice, St. Paul Style

Another leisure Saturday, another trip over to the State Capital, St. Paul. We were invited by Ruby's aunt and uncle to experience the first day of the Winter Carnival. We learned as the day progressed, that the St. Paul Winter Carnival was started back in the day, in 1886 and has been a huge community festival ever since. According to my research about the beginnings of this tradition, business leaders of the burgeoning city wanted to, "...disprove a New York newspaper reporter who had described their beloved city as 'another Siberia, unfit for human habitation in the winter.'” Hysterical.

As we have described on numerous occasions on the blog, Minnesotans are anything but wimpy winterizers. Bikers, skiers, nude pedestrians, dog walkers; all in sub zero temperatures with wind-chill! Carnival was no exception. Today was an especially brutal winter morning. We were out of the house by 9:30am and by 10am we were sipping sweet, hot coffee and partaking in delicious baked goodness at Swede Hollow on E.7th St. We enjoyed some delicious coffee; I had a Cubano coffee which was 2 shots of espresso, brown sugar and steamed milk. Coffees were served with a bitter-sweet chocolate stir stick. Artichoke Strata (picture a savory crustless quiche flecked with red peppers, artichokes and shallots, topped with finely grated cheese). My fellow eaters had an assortment of pastries ranging from cherry almond scones to pecan buns to sweet cinnamon bread pudding. Breakfast of champions.

Ice sculptures were being carved as we walked through the amazing display. Day one of the Winter Festival was underway... (if you have a hard time making out the sculptures, the one on the right is called 'School of Fish' Complete with Mr. Wally Eye, teaching up front, and little dunce-cap fish sitting on a conch shell beside him. Below, a scenic tiki beach, hammock, palm trees and tropical temptations...)

From there we hopped back in the car and jetted of to Rice Park - not so much a park but a little green area opposite the Landmark Center, an amazing architectural structure built in 1802 complete with St. Paul lore and historical significance. We learned all about the history of the building, from its heyday at the turn of the century, to its transformation into USPS central station, to 1930's New Deal headquarters. A national landmark, today it serves as a cultural center for music, dance, theater, exhibitions, and can be rented for kick ass parties.
Fun times. Cold, but definitely worth waking up for delicious breakfast and supporting sub-zero ice carving aficionados.

We gave the Winter Carnival a whirl. What would you do with 6 months of winter??

Holding out for Springtime and our own Manhattan Skyline

The winter is no time for a vacation in Minneapolis.
We are realizing this fact the hard way. The sun in the sky is not an indicator of a lovely day for a walk. The sunniest days have been the coldest. Though we are trying to get out of the house and have at least one adventure a day, it seems like it's easier to stay put. Sunset at 5:20, dinner at 7. Depressing thoughts.
We left the house yesterday, computer and novels a-tow.
We parked the car on 24th street and as I got out I noticed the house with the flowerbox. Sweet. Still holding out for springtime??
I know I am.



Cross the street to Nicollet. Arrive at Spyhouse. Surly baristas, average coffee, stale food, dirty tables, packed 24/7, strange collection of students, chess playing weird old men, loafers and grimy furniture. Ahhhh... feels like home!! We miss you, NY! Feels like the Tea Lounge on Union St. Brooklyn minus the babies and stroller brigade. The sweet part of the evening was taking pictures of the cafe and realizing how many of the kitchy 50's era art was of the Manhattan skyline! Check it out:

Cooking in the Cold (part 2): Fish Tacos

In an attempt to stay warm and keep from remembering the fact that we are far away from our friends and loved ones, I decided to cook up some fish tacos. Our favorite burrito take out, La Taqueria in Park Slope, was our go-to for any meal we were not interested in cooking but totally craving. In hopes of bringing back memories, that was what I decided to make for dinner...

Fish Tacos with Garlic Black Beans, Lemon Cole Slaw and Ancho-Lime Crema
Makes plenty for 2 people with leftovers for later...

The FISH part:

1. Take a nice filet or 2 Talapia or other white flaky fish.
2. Marinate in lemon, herbs, s&p, garlic powder and any other flavor enhancers.
3. After marination, dredge in flour (whole wheat) or a combo of flour and cornmeal (for a nice crunch).
4. Fry up fish in 1/2 an inch of canola oil.
5. Flip when ready and dry out on paper towel. Keep warm in a 250 degree oven...

The BEANS part:

1. Crack open a can of black beans (or any other bean of your choice), drain beans but don't rinse.
2. In a small pot or deep pan, saute 3 cloves of garlic and 1/2 onion in some olive oil with seasonings to taste. Cumin, chili, garlic powder or adobo, s&p...
3. Once onions are soft and spices are fragrant, take about 1/4 of the beans and dump 'em into the pot and mash them into a saucy paste.
4. Add the rest of the can of beans to the pot with a little water.

The LEMONY SLAW part:
Easy.

1. Shred some red or white cabbage very thin. Sprinkle with a little salt to wilt.
2. After about 10 minutes, mix and soften the cabbage with your hands or with a more sanitary utensil.
3. If too salty, rinse under water and strain out in the sink.
4. Add lemon and/or lime juice (fresh is best). Add some olive oil, pepper, cumin seeds, vinegar and stir up.

The CREMA!

1. Soak 2 ancho chilis (Goya sells them dried in most grocery 'ethnic' aisles) in hot water. Cover with a plate. When reconstituted, remove seeds (if you want a milder chili) and put in a medium sized bowl or blender.
2. To the bowl, add 1 cup of plain yogurt or sour cream.
3. For a creamier version, add some mayonnaise.
4. Squeeze the juice of 1 lime and add some of the zest.
5. Season with s&p
6. If you have a hand mixer, blend it up in the bowl or in the blender.
   Voila. Crema!
   

Heat up some corn (or as we did - blue corn) tortillas in a warm pan.
assemble your tacos or eat 'em all in a big pile.
Serve with fresh salsa, pickled jalapeno slices and avocado.
Report back once you've made it and let me know what you think!

-miya